The Works

| 2005 |

Malvan -- a lesson in History

With a number of forts dotting the length and breadth of the state, why would anyone from Goa want to travel 105 kms north of Goa to see a fort in Maharashtra? True, but if this particular fort happens to be located on an island in the Arabian sea and if this unique and imposing edifice was constructed in the 17th century, by none other than the great Shivaji, then a trip

 to this fort in Malvan seems more than justified. A jeep-load of guys who were on an office holiday decided to undertake this day-long expedition to experience two of Malvan’s great treasures -- the Sindhudurga fort and Malvani food.

The two-hour journey, which originated from Panjim, came to an end at the Malvan beach. A boat service (a return ticket costs Rs 27 per person) then takes 12-14 visitors on a 10-minute ride to the Sindhudurga fort. While the boatman insists that the visitors return within an hour, the group can easily prolong its stay in the fort by a few hours, provided a tip of Rs 100 is given to the boatman as ‘waiting charge’.

The Sindhudurga fort was built with the help of huge rocks on the Kurte Island which amazes tourists and one cannot but appreciate the imaginative power of Shivaji.

According to available records, Shivaji selected the larger of the two outer islands in the bay almost blocked by rocky reefs, actually about half a mile from the Dandi point of the Malvan shore.

In 1664, Shivaji erected this fort on 44 acres of land. It took 500 stone splitters and stone breakers, 200 blacksmiths, 3,000 labourers and hundreds of skilled artists who toiled very hard to complete this fort in three years. This is evident from stone inscriptions. Initially, a 3 km long outer wall (Tat) was built. The average height of wall 10 metre and 2 to 4 metre broad.

The trick used in the construction of entrance door seems to be mastermind work. The technique was so deceptive for the enemy that they could not even realise from where the entrance door begains. The outer zigzag wall also built in a such a way that if the enemy would come to attack it would be visible from any side so that troops inside the fort could fire their guns and cannons effectively and humble the enemy. Crores of Hones (gold coins) where then spent to build this wonderful fort.

According to one record, over 200 khandis (4,000 mounds of irons) was used for casting the necessary implements and the solid foundation stones were laid down firmly in molten lead. The work was executed under the superintendence of Govind Vishwanath Prabhu of the Kudal Desaee family, with assistance from 100 Portuguese experts. Even Shivaji in person is said to have worked here with his own hands.

The Sindhudurga fort covers an extensive area of 48 acres by almost 2 miles long rampart walls. The walls are low, ranging from 29 to 30 feet. They are on an average 12 feet thick and have about 32 towers from 40 to 130 yards apart.

The curtain wall is guarded by, apart from the observation towers, 52 enormous imposing semicircular bastions with fine embrasures for cannons. The entrance to the fort is by Dilli Darwaja to the north-east. Here and there, narrow staircases lead from the inside to the top of the walls.

Water is provided by three wells and two tanks for storing rain water. The fort today is permanently inhabited by a few gabits. Accoding to reports, these gabits are reported to be the 8th generation of the servants of Shivaji.

Once full of buildings, the fort is now a mere shell with nothing but a few houses and some temples dedicated to Mahadeo, Jarimai, Mahapursh, Bhavani and Shivaji, the only one of its kind in the country.

In 1765 after the rule of Shivaji, an expedition under the joint command of Major Gordon and Captain John Watson of Bombay marine were sent to speedily reduce the fort and they gave it the name of Fort Augustus. As the fort was very hard to dismantle and unprofitable, it was returned back to the Marathas, then Kolhapur chief, in return for peace in the area.

A trek around the fort is certainly exciting for the history buff, especially since the visitor partakes in the rich history of the fort. One can almost imagine the life in the Sindhudurga fort during the 17th century.

Once back on the the mainland by noon, the renowned Malvani food beckons the tourist, who is by now satiated in history. A number of Malvani restaurants in the town offer the irresistible fish curry rice, besides other veg and non-veg dishes.

A trip to the Sindhudurga fort in Malvan may seem out of the way for Goans, but the coastal town certainly provides a unique day-long nourishment for the mind and body.

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